Arles route - Weg von Arles - Camino de Arles - Voie d'Arles

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Some 900 kilometres are to be made from Arles to reach Puente-la-Reina along the Arles route (GR653 long-distance footpath). Puente-la-Reina in Spain is at the crossing with the Camino francés coming from Roncesvalles and heading to Santiago de Compostela. The Arles route runs via Montpellier, Lodève, Castres, Toulouse, Auch, Oloron-Sainte-Marie and Jaca, crossing the Pyrenees by the Somport pass. Many remarquable places are located along the route: St-Trophime and Roman monuments at Arles; St-Gilles Basilica; Gellone Abbey at the medieval village of St-Guilhem-le-Désert; the Grands-Causses and Haut-Languedoc natural parks; the bastide of Revel; the Canal du Midi; St-Sernin, Hôpital-St-Jacques and les Cordeliers at Toulouse; Ste-Foy at Morlaas; Notre-Dame Cathedral at Lescar; Sainte-Marie Cathedral at Oloron; San-Pedro Cathedral at Jaca; monastery of San-Juan-de-la-Peña; Santa-Maria-de-Eunate, just to mention the most impressive of them (see the Gallery of pictures).

Compared to other St-James routes, the Arles route benefits from varied landscapes: plains (from Arles to Montpellier; from La-Salvetat-sur-Agout to the beginning of the Gers), mountains (Grands-Causses and Haut-Languedoc from St-Guilhem-du-Désert to La-Salvetat-sur-Agout; the Pyrenees from Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Jaca), more or less pronounced hills (from the Gers to Oloron-Sainte-Marie; in Aragón and in Navarra). The great diversity of landscapes, climates, soils, architecture, ways of life and cultures would make it worth in itself to making the Arles route.


Although perfectly achievable by an average walker, the Arles route may sometimes be demanding because of the terrain. Anyone would expect a tough climbing to the Somport pass (eventually, it's not that tough!). But who would expect certain sections in the Grands-Causses, Haut-Languedoc, Gers region, foothills of the Pyrenees and río Aragón valley to seem nearly as difficult as the Pyrenees crossing? That may just become a reality to anyone who is not properly informed that these sections have constant ups and down. The reason is that many guides are not clear enough about those difficulties or do not take them into account when recommending stages. Once you are well informed, it's no more a problem. Collecting detailed information from various sources, before and on the way, is a key to a smooth and enjoyable Arles route. Below is a suggestion on how the route can be divided into stages. Also, have a look at the 'Useful Links' page for more.


     Dividing the route into Stages.

Suggested stages below are the outcome of several pilgrims' experience along the Arles route. They are the result of a trade-off between several factors: physical capacity of reasonably trained walkers (taking distances and terrains into account), sightseeings and other constraints, especially those related to accommodation (browse through the 'Useful Links' page for more information on accommodations). Time dedicated to sightseeing in large towns - Montpellier, Toulouse, Pau - is not included. It's up to you to decide whether it will be appropriate to take a day off for sightseeing or to consider that it may spoil your pilgrimage or break your walking pace.
The 36 stages below could be reduced to 32 or stretched to 40 depending on your pace and on the time dedicated to sightseeing. Except for a few portions, there are enough accommodations so that you can make 'your own route'. Besides, the choice was made to skipping a few portions related to large towns that proved to be boring and cumbersome: entrance and exit of Montpellier (respectively 8kms and 9 kms cut) and exit of Toulouse (12 kms cut). On the contrary, entering Toulouse by the Canal du Midi proves a pleasant stage. Pau is a special case since the trail passes round north and west of the town.

The tables provide indications as to how difficult stages may be according to distances and terrains: * easy, ** average, *** demanding. This rating takes into account the growing physical capacity that arises stage after stage. The tables also provide information on time required to achieve stages based upon an average speed of 4 km/h weighted by distance and terrain related difficulties. In case of unfavorable wheather (heat or hard rain), these estimates would have to be reconsidered.

a) from Arles to Montpellier.

This section is probably the less interesting part of the Arles route, except for the town of Arles, St-Gilles Basilica and the pleasant crossing of a few vineyards and beautiful villages. You may just consider it as a warming-up section that will enable you to progressively enter into the atmosphere and the pacing of your pilgrimage. Besides that, there are many kms to be made on roads, the proximity of highways, many crossings of large industrial and agricultural areas, of railway lines, etc.

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
1
*
Arles - Saint Gilles
5:15
21
21
crossing of the Camargue (on roads!). Other option: along the canal du Petit-Rhône.
2
**
Saint Gilles - Gallargues le Montueux
7:15
29
50
 
3
**
Gallargues le Montueux - Montpellier (Vendargues)
7:30
30
80
recommendation: take a bus at Vendargues in order to skip the outskirts of Montpellier. Otherwise add 8 km.

b) from Montpellier to Lodève.

After Grabels the trail reaches garrigue-covered plateaus. St-Guilhem-le-Désert is a medieval jewel that makes an ideal stop. After St-Guilhem another step up leads to dry plateaus that looks down upon the Languedoc plain. A last and short stage makes it possible to spend some time at the St-Michel-de-Gramont monastery and at Lodève.

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
4
**
Montpellier (Grabels) - St Guilhem le Désert
7:45
30
110
recommendation: take the tramway and a bus to Grabels. Otherwise add 9 km to be completed in the outskirts of Montpellier.
5
***
St Guilhem le Désert - St Jean de la Blaquière
6:15
23
133
the usually recommended stage St Guilhem - Lodève is divided in two due to its great difficulty.
6
*
St Jean de la Blaquière - Lodève
4:00
15
148
 

c) from Lodève to La-Salvetat-sur-Agout.

From Lodève onwards, the trail progressively enters the Haut-Languedoc massif. Forests take over the 'garrigue'. Landscapes and the few villages encountered are superb. Certain parts of the trail are quite difficult as probably was life in this area sometime ago.

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
7
**
Lodève - Lunas
7:00
27
175
 
8
***
Lunas - Saint Gervais sur Mare
8:00
29
204
the first of two demanding stages in the Haut-Languedoc ...
9
***
Saint Gervais sur Mare - Murat sur Vèbre
7:15
26
230
... the second one ...
10
*
Murat sur Vèbre - La Salvetat sur Agout
5:45
22
252
... and to end up an easy walk along the Lauzas lake.

d) from La-Salvetat-sur-Agout to Castres.

In this section, the suggested pace allows some recovery after the previous difficult stages. The trail goes across hills, forests and lakes. The 3 short stages that make this section up are aimed at enjoying a sightseeing afternoon in Castres. You may also do it in 2 stages of 26kms and 30 kms with a stop at Lasfaillades.

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
11
*
La Salvetat sur Agout - Anglès
5:00
20
272
 
12
*
Anglès - Boissezon
5:00
20
292
 
13
*
Boissezon - Castres
5:45
16
308
 

e) from Castres to Toulouse.

After Castres a large plain commences that leads to the Gers region. The suggestion of stages is influenced by the quality of experienced accommodation: Sainte-Scholastique abbey (one may also prefer En-Calcat abbey, 1 km before) and the 'gîtes' at Les Cassès (1 km outside the GR) and at Moulin de Naurouze, both belonging to the 'Haltes vers Compostelle' association. From Naurouze it is recommended to leave the GR and to go along the pleasant and shaded Canal du Midi that leads to Toulouse's downtown.

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
14
*
Castres - Abbaye Sainte Scholastique
5:15
21
329
 
15
**
Abbaye Sainte Scholastique - Les Cassès
7:45
31
360
from Revel to Naurouze, along the 'Rigole', feeding channel of the Canal du Midi
16
*
Les Cassès - Moulin de Naurouze
5:15
21
381
 
17
*
Moulin de Naurouze - Baziège (par le canal du Midi)
7:45
31
412
out of GR option. Otherwise add 4 km.
18
*
Baziège - Toulouse (par le canal du Midi)
7:45
31
443
out of GR option. Otherwise add 1 km and, above all, walk through the outskirts of Toulouse.

f) from Toulouse to Auch.

From Pibrac to L'Isle-Jourdain, the trail still runs across plains and forests. Then, it progressively starts ups and downs across hills, among fields and forests. Terrain becomes more demanding but the beauty of the landscapes and of the villages provide some reward for the accomplished efforts.

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
19
**
Toulouse (Pibrac) - L'Isle Jourdain
7:15
29
472
recommendation: take a train to Pibrac, otherwise add 12 km (outskirts, airport sector, Airbus plant).
20
**
L'Isle Jourdain - L'isle Arné
5:00
30
504
 
21
*
L'Isle Arné - Auch
5:45
23
527
short stage enabling sightseeing in Auch.

g) from Auch to Morlaas.

In this hilly section, the trail runs through fields and forests. Many beautiful villages typical of the Gers area: Barran, Montesquiou, St-Christaud, Marciac and its bastide, Auriébat). After Maubourguet, the trail climbs up to a plateau before going down to the plain of Pau.

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
22
***
Auch- Montesquiou
8:30
32
559
 
23
*
Montesquiou - Marciac
6:00
23
582
 
24
*
Marciac - Maubourguet
4:30
18
600
other option: stage at Lahitte-Toupière 3 km further.
25
*
Maubourguet - Anoye
5:45
22
622
 
26
*
Anoye - Morlaas
4:15
17
639
short stage that let time to visit Sainte-Foy de Morlaas.

h) from Morlaas to the Somport pass.

With the Pyrenees getting closer decsions will have to be made. Between Morlaas and Oloron-Sainte-Marie, one may stop at Lescar in order to admire the beauties of this former capital city of Béarn, or extend the stage to the pleasant village of Lacommande (small accommodation capacity). After Oloron the question is raised as to how many stages would be required to the Somport pass: 2 or 3? The answer will depend on how fit you are and on your apprehension. You just have to know that going along the vallée d'Aspe is an easy walk except for the last 2 hours of climbing. You may also choose the SNCF shuttle in order to avoid walking along the N134 (heavy traffic of lorries heading to the tunnel crossing the Pyrenees).

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
27
*
Morlaas - Lescar
5:00
20
659
 
28
***
Lescar - Oloron Sainte Marie
8:30
32
691
 
29
**
Oloron Sainte Marie - Bedous
7:30
30
721
 
30
***
Bedous - Somport pass
8:15
30
782
 

i) from the Somport pass to Puente-la-Reina.

At the Somport pass, the forests of the French side of the Pyrenees give place to dry lands on the Spanish side. An easy going down along the río Aragón leads to Jaca, a warm and friendly town that is worth a visit. The camino then follows the río Aragón westwards. Close to the 'embalse de Yesa', villages are partly or entirely foresaken. Mineral landscapes in valleys, created by erosion, alternate with forests on low mountains. After the sierra de Izco, the trail goes down to the superb Sangüesa. During the last two stages you will experience never ending ups and downs until reaching Tiebas. Arriving at the magnificient Sta-Maria-de Eunate is a great emotion, just a few kms before Puente-la-Reina.

 
            
stage: from ... to ...
time
kms
total
 
31
**
Somport pass - Jaca
7:15
31
782
 
32
*
Jaca - Arres
6:15
25
807
option: one more day to visit the superb monastery of San-Juan-de-la Peña.
33
**
Arres - Ruesta
7:15
28
835
 
34
**
Ruesta - Sangüesa
6:00
22
857
 
35
***
Sangüesa - Monreal
6:30
25
882
 
36
***
Monreal - Puente la Reina
7:45
31
913