Some 900 kilometres are to be made from Arles to reach Puente-la-Reina along the Arles route (GR653 long-distance footpath). Puente-la-Reina in Spain is at the crossing with the Camino francés coming from Roncesvalles and heading to Santiago de Compostela. The Arles route runs via Montpellier, Lodève, Castres, Toulouse, Auch, Oloron-Sainte-Marie and Jaca, crossing the Pyrenees by the Somport pass. Many remarquable places are located along the route: St-Trophime and Roman monuments at Arles; St-Gilles Basilica; Gellone Abbey at the medieval village of St-Guilhem-le-Désert; the Grands-Causses and Haut-Languedoc natural parks; the bastide of Revel; the Canal du Midi; St-Sernin, Hôpital-St-Jacques and les Cordeliers at Toulouse; Ste-Foy at Morlaas; Notre-Dame Cathedral at Lescar; Sainte-Marie Cathedral at Oloron; San-Pedro Cathedral at Jaca; monastery of San-Juan-de-la-Peña; Santa-Maria-de-Eunate, just to mention the most impressive of them (see the Gallery of pictures). Compared to other St-James routes, the Arles route benefits from varied landscapes: plains (from Arles to Montpellier; from La-Salvetat-sur-Agout to the beginning of the Gers), mountains (Grands-Causses and Haut-Languedoc from St-Guilhem-du-Désert to La-Salvetat-sur-Agout; the Pyrenees from Oloron-Sainte-Marie to Jaca), more or less pronounced hills (from the Gers to Oloron-Sainte-Marie; in Aragón and in Navarra). The great diversity of landscapes, climates, soils, architecture, ways of life and cultures would make it worth in itself to making the Arles route. |
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Although perfectly achievable by an average walker, the Arles route may sometimes be demanding because of the terrain. Anyone would expect a tough climbing to the Somport pass (eventually, it's not that tough!). But who would expect certain sections in the Grands-Causses, Haut-Languedoc, Gers region, foothills of the Pyrenees and río Aragón valley to seem nearly as difficult as the Pyrenees crossing? That may just become a reality to anyone who is not properly informed that these sections have constant ups and down. The reason is that many guides are not clear enough about those difficulties or do not take them into account when recommending stages. Once you are well informed, it's no more a problem. Collecting detailed information from various sources, before and on the way, is a key to a smooth and enjoyable Arles route. Below is a suggestion on how the route can be divided into stages. Also, have a look at the 'Useful Links' page for more.
Suggested stages below are the outcome of several pilgrims' experience
along the Arles route. They are the result of a trade-off between several
factors: physical capacity of reasonably trained walkers (taking distances
and terrains into account), sightseeings and other constraints, especially
those related to accommodation (browse through the
'Useful Links' page for more information on accommodations). Time
dedicated to sightseeing in large towns - Montpellier, Toulouse, Pau
- is not included. It's up to you to decide whether it will be appropriate
to take a day off for sightseeing or to consider that it may spoil your
pilgrimage or break your walking pace. The tables provide indications as to how difficult stages may be according
to distances and terrains: * easy, ** average, *** demanding. This rating
takes into account the growing physical capacity that arises stage after
stage. The tables also provide information on time required to achieve
stages based upon an average speed of 4 km/h weighted by distance and
terrain related difficulties. In case of unfavorable wheather (heat
or hard rain), these estimates would have to be reconsidered. a) from Arles to Montpellier.This section is probably the less interesting part of the Arles route, except for the town of Arles, St-Gilles Basilica and the pleasant crossing of a few vineyards and beautiful villages. You may just consider it as a warming-up section that will enable you to progressively enter into the atmosphere and the pacing of your pilgrimage. Besides that, there are many kms to be made on roads, the proximity of highways, many crossings of large industrial and agricultural areas, of railway lines, etc.
b) from Montpellier to Lodève.After Grabels the trail reaches garrigue-covered plateaus. St-Guilhem-le-Désert is a medieval jewel that makes an ideal stop. After St-Guilhem another step up leads to dry plateaus that looks down upon the Languedoc plain. A last and short stage makes it possible to spend some time at the St-Michel-de-Gramont monastery and at Lodève.
c) from Lodève to La-Salvetat-sur-Agout.From Lodève onwards, the trail progressively enters the Haut-Languedoc massif. Forests take over the 'garrigue'. Landscapes and the few villages encountered are superb. Certain parts of the trail are quite difficult as probably was life in this area sometime ago.
d) from La-Salvetat-sur-Agout to Castres.In this section, the suggested pace allows some recovery after the previous difficult stages. The trail goes across hills, forests and lakes. The 3 short stages that make this section up are aimed at enjoying a sightseeing afternoon in Castres. You may also do it in 2 stages of 26kms and 30 kms with a stop at Lasfaillades.
e) from Castres to Toulouse.After Castres a large plain commences that leads to the Gers region. The suggestion of stages is influenced by the quality of experienced accommodation: Sainte-Scholastique abbey (one may also prefer En-Calcat abbey, 1 km before) and the 'gîtes' at Les Cassès (1 km outside the GR) and at Moulin de Naurouze, both belonging to the 'Haltes vers Compostelle' association. From Naurouze it is recommended to leave the GR and to go along the pleasant and shaded Canal du Midi that leads to Toulouse's downtown.
f) from Toulouse to Auch.From Pibrac to L'Isle-Jourdain, the trail still runs across plains and forests. Then, it progressively starts ups and downs across hills, among fields and forests. Terrain becomes more demanding but the beauty of the landscapes and of the villages provide some reward for the accomplished efforts.
g) from Auch to Morlaas.In this hilly section, the trail runs through fields and forests. Many beautiful villages typical of the Gers area: Barran, Montesquiou, St-Christaud, Marciac and its bastide, Auriébat). After Maubourguet, the trail climbs up to a plateau before going down to the plain of Pau.
h) from Morlaas to the Somport pass.With the Pyrenees getting closer decsions will have to be made. Between Morlaas and Oloron-Sainte-Marie, one may stop at Lescar in order to admire the beauties of this former capital city of Béarn, or extend the stage to the pleasant village of Lacommande (small accommodation capacity). After Oloron the question is raised as to how many stages would be required to the Somport pass: 2 or 3? The answer will depend on how fit you are and on your apprehension. You just have to know that going along the vallée d'Aspe is an easy walk except for the last 2 hours of climbing. You may also choose the SNCF shuttle in order to avoid walking along the N134 (heavy traffic of lorries heading to the tunnel crossing the Pyrenees).
i) from the Somport pass to Puente-la-Reina.At the Somport pass, the forests of the French side of the Pyrenees give place to dry lands on the Spanish side. An easy going down along the río Aragón leads to Jaca, a warm and friendly town that is worth a visit. The camino then follows the río Aragón westwards. Close to the 'embalse de Yesa', villages are partly or entirely foresaken. Mineral landscapes in valleys, created by erosion, alternate with forests on low mountains. After the sierra de Izco, the trail goes down to the superb Sangüesa. During the last two stages you will experience never ending ups and downs until reaching Tiebas. Arriving at the magnificient Sta-Maria-de Eunate is a great emotion, just a few kms before Puente-la-Reina.
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